Ted Meinhover Tedericco

10Jan/120

King Fish in Port Antonio

The rainy season makes it a little harder to enjoy the beaches of Portland, on the North Coast of Jamaica. But that can't stop us from indulging in the bounties of the sea!

Saturday had us at a nice place on the outskirts of Port Antonio, in the Parish of Portland, called Anna Banana. The king fish steak, steamed, was excellent.

10Jan/120

The Living and the Dead in Jamaica

A friend once told me, as we drove together over the Blue Mountains from Kingston to the much more pleasant North Coast, that Jamaicans treat the dead better than the living.

The notorious Nigh Night, a massive party involving dancing, food, drink, music, and in some cases I hear, shots fired into the air, is the culmination to a long period of mourning and partying before a deceased person's soul is finally sent on its way.

Graves in Jamaica can range from the modest and tradition to the perhaps distastefully outlandish. This cemetery in St. Andrew, on the way to St. Mary, told a million little stories, from the memorials scratched in a grave while the cement was still wet, to the trash on the ground, the rum bottles and cookies laid on a loved one's shrine of a grave, to the elaborate mausoleumof a final resting place.

 

Tagged as: No Comments
21Nov/111

Moments, On The Way Home

Has it come to this? My letter writing confined to long bus and plane rides, those moments of drawn out transition when my brain has a chance reset, reacquaint itself with thoughts that do not involve the meetings or reports of the day, the latest Jamaican political drama, whether last night's rain storm carved any new potholes along my route to and from the embassy? In my last letter, written on a bus trip from New York to Washington, I promised to be a bit more prolific in my writing... sorry.

But now, once again, ears popping in the plane's changing pressure, Thelonious Monk on my headphones, mind numb from the 4:00 am ride to the airport, I can leave one The Caribbean behind and delve into a Thanksgiving holiday with family and friends in Minnesota.
...
And now, a few hours later, of all the places to get stuck, Terminal D of Miami-Dade International Airport, a rather desolate stretch of gates and doughnut vendors. 40 mile per hour winds in Chicago, they say, everything delayed. Now wishing I had a direct flight to Minneapolis/St. Paul. But MIA does give me an opportunity to read, write, and people watch. I can see the flip side of the immigrant's story, for example. In Jamaica, I routinely deal with people who are migrating/ want to migrate to the USA. This airport, however, seems to employ almost exclusively people for whom English is not a first language, people from every Latin American country, people who take your lunch order in English before jumping back into rapid fire Spanish conversations with their coworkers. People who come to a new country and work very hard, hopefully legally and hopefully for something better than they had before.

Sooner or later I'll touch down in Minnesota, though, and a blast of November air will cement the physical transition away from the tropics and away from life as a "diplomat" - in quotes as a useful replacement to what would otherwise be a long and ultimately inadequate description of this strange and wonderful existence. The psychological transition will take a bit longer, since I haven't seen my friends or family or home for over 14 months, and I have barely set foot in an American supermarket or department store for that long. For all the similarities, there are so many differences.

Much thought has been going into the commitment I seem to have made that will define the next seven years of my life: in less than a year I will begin ten months of language training before heading to Beijing, China for a five year tour at the embassy. Well, a one year "junior officer" tour in 2013 and a three year "mid level" tour in 2015, with a year of language study in china in between. I am participating in a pilot program put in place with the hopes of building a corps of diplomats highly proficient in the Chinese language - anyone who thinks US-China relations will not be an increasingly important theme has not been paying attention. I am very proud to be a part of this program. The prospect of living and working in Beijing for five years of my life evokes all sorts of excitement and anxiety.
...
And finally, in Minneapolis, a few inches of snow have already fallen since I've been here. It's going to be a good two weeks.

9Oct/110

Jamaica’s National Plant Nursery

Next door to Hope Gardens, the national garden.

19Aug/110

Ten Years, Three National Capitals

It dawns on me that when I finally depart Beijing, China in 2018 - assuming all plans take place as they have been laid out - I will have spent a consecutive ten years living in the capital cities of three different countries.

I moved to Washington, DC in 2008, then to Kingston, Jamaica two and a half years later. I will go back to DC for the good part of a year when I leave Kingston after two years, and then head to Beijing for a long, five year stint.

Filed under: Travels No Comments
14Aug/110

Country Driving

23Jul/110

Another North Coast Jaunt

James Bond Beach

 

20Jun/110

Open Letter: From the Field

One in a series of introspective updates to my family and friends.

 

Life is strange, and it does strange things to us. It changes us (or,
more passively, we are changed by it...), even as it changes the world
around us, and the result seems to be that we are constantly preoccupied
with trying to figure out just what the hell is going on.

OK, so I exaggerate and romanticize, but only for
the innocent purpose of dramatic effect, and I couldn't think of how
else to begin an email after failing to write for a very long time.

I am currently riding down HW 95 in one of the many Washington - New
York commuter buses, on my way to D.C. after a wonderful weekend in
that intoxicating city, eating spectacular food and catching up with
friends I have not seen for far, far too long. After about ten months
in Kingston, Jamaica I am repatriated for the first time (the
involuntary trip last December to the hospital does not count) for a
week-long visit. I hope to fly back to the Caribbean and my pet fish
Alphonso this Sunday with a surplus of sleep, a palette tingling with
flavors other than jerk chicken, many deep conversations to ponder
over, and some name brand underwear and vitamins that would cost a
fortune in Jamaica, if I could even find them.


It is difficult to pick any single story to relate after so many weeks
and months, when each day seems to offer the novel, the bizarre,
challenging, uplifting or depressing. But I can say that I am very
much enjoying myself, for the most part, finding fulfillment and
challenge in the work I do, in the relationships I nurture and
develop, in my ability to indulge in exploring the environs of the
island and the broader world. I don't read, write, or sleep as much as
I'd like, but when have I ever really? All in all I count myself among
the lucky and privileged of the world, when it comes down to it.

Novels, poems, and memoirs have been written about the life of an
expatriate, and for good reason, because it is impossible to sum it up
in any concise way, let alone a single email. It is always the first
and most challenging question I get, "how is life overseas," and I
never answer to my satisfaction. My book will probably be a mix of an
Anthony Bourdain travel-food book or tv show, "On The Road," "The Ugly
American," etc (I'm no good at citing literature, like I said I don't
read enough...).

This email/novel is getting a bit long already, so I will have to get in the habit of writing more often. Or, better perhaps, you should encourage me to write at www.tedmeinhover.com more frequently.

 

25Apr/110

Football in the Jungle

The concrete steps that were the seats of the Arnette Gardens football stadium had all day to absorb the direct Caribbean sunshine, and our butts paid the price as we sat down for a Sunday afternoon of Jamaican football.

 

Tivoli Vs Boystown, semifinals of the Flow Cup

A fascinating and surprising aspect of the afternoon was the halftime sexy dance contest (this video is intended for mature audiences). The notion of sexuality and modesty is much different from that of this shy Minnesota-raised lad who feels compelled to avert his eyes at the first hint of female exploitation.

 

 

Arnett Gardens Stadium

A friend lent me a Tivoli Gardens jersey (orange and white). Lucky for me, Tivoli went ahead to win the day.

 

The open and perfectly acceptable drug use in the bleachers was another aspect of this particular game that I was not entirely prepared for. I had no trouble relaxing, in any case, as the billows of smoke drifted about from every direction.

Even the snack vendors were pushing the stuff - "cigarettes, peanuts, high grade..."

"Peanuts, high grade"

"Peanuts, high grade"

 

13Feb/110

Getting My Vitamin D

Hardly 45 minutes west of Kingston, past depressing urban sprawl, nostril burning slash and burn agriculture, and the quickly browning hillsides during this Jamaica's dry season, Fort Clarence Beach goes a long way toward adding balance to the noise and unpleasantness of the capital city.